From Slur to Spotlight: How Chamar Studio is Reshaping Indian Design 

Chamar Studio, a Mumbai-based design collective founded by Dalit artist Sudheer Rajbhar, is transforming caste-based discrimination and environmental waste into powerful art by reclaiming the slur “Chamar” and using recycled rubber from discarded tires to create sustainable, high-end accessories and furniture—a movement that gained global recognition when Rihanna was seen with their flap chair, empowering marginalized artisans through fair wages, profit-sharing, and international exhibitions while reshaping both societal perceptions and ecological practices.

From Slur to Spotlight: How Chamar Studio is Reshaping Indian Design 

In the bustling slums of Mumbai, discarded tires and caste-based insults are being transformed into symbols of pride and international acclaim. 

When global pop icon Rihanna casually perched on a striking red chair at Design Miami in 2024, the internet immediately took notice. Yet the real story wasn’t the celebrity herself, but the revolutionary piece of furniture she chose—a creation that carries within its rubber folds a powerful narrative of social justice, environmental consciousness, and cultural reclamation . 

This is the story of Chamar Studio, a Mumbai-based design collective that’s transforming both waste materials and caste-based discrimination into artworks that command international attention and challenge preconceptions about whose creativity matters. 

The Man Behind the Movement: Sudheer Rajbhar’s Vision 

Sudheer Rajbhar, a Dalit artist from Uttar Pradesh who grew up in Mumbai’s slums, knows the sting of discrimination firsthand. “Growing up in Mumbai slums, I used to be cursed as ‘Chamar,'” he recalls, referencing the traditional term for leatherworkers that has been weaponized as a casteist slur . Rather than accept this degradation, Rajbhar chose to reclaim the term, transforming it into a badge of pride and the name of his studio . 

Founded in 2017, Chamar Studio emerged during a critical period in India’s social and political landscape. Following the election of Narendra Modi and the subsequent spread of beef bans across India, many Dalit communities who had relied on leather work for generations found their livelihoods devastated . Of India’s 28 states, 20 implemented these bans, cutting off access to raw materials and rendering generations of specialized skills seemingly obsolete overnight . 

Faced with this crisis, Rajbhar began experimenting with alternative materials, eventually landing on recycled rubber from discarded tires and inner tubes . This innovative solution not only provided a sustainable alternative to leather but also became the foundation for a new artistic movement that simultaneously addresses environmental and social concerns. 

More Than Furniture: The Deeper Significance of the Flap Chair 

The now-famous Flap Chair that captured Rihanna’s attention represents far more than a seating option. Created from recycled rubber, this piece embodies both the aesthetic vision and social mission of Chamar Studio . The chair’s design, with its dramatic draping reminiscent of luxury fashion, challenges conventional boundaries between craft, art, and furniture design . 

Rajbhar describes the creative process behind the chair: “I had no idea what the end result would be until I arrived at it and realised I liked it” . The metal structure provided by Æquo gallery felt like a mannequin to be draped, with rivets replacing Chamar Studio’s traditional stitching . The vibrant red hue marked a departure from the studio’s distinctive blue, which was originally inspired by the blue tarpaulin used to protect Dharavi’s structures during monsoon season . 

With a price tag of approximately ₹10 lakhs (about $12,000) and requiring 5-7 months of painstaking craftsmanship by a team of three artisans, the Flap Chair represents both a luxury item and a testament to the skill of its makers . As Rajbhar emphasizes, it is not merely decor but a “work of art” that carries within it the story of a marginalized community’s resilience and creativity . 

Beyond Bans: How Recycled Rubber Became a Medium for Change 

The shift from leather to recycled rubber represented both a practical solution and a philosophical stance for Chamar Studio. “Most people see discarded tyres and inner tubes as waste, but for us they became a new medium,” explains Rajbhar . This material transformation allowed artisans to continue utilizing their craftsmanship while adopting an eco-friendly alternative that is waterproof, durable, and cruelty-free . 

The studio’s innovative use of materials extends beyond tires to include various recycled rubber products, which they clean, cut, and stitch into bags, shoes, and accessories that closely resemble leather in texture and quality . This approach not only reduces waste but creates products that align with growing consumer interest in sustainable fashion. 

Table: Chamar Studio’s Product Evolution 

The Ripple Effect: Economic and Social Empowerment 

At its core, Chamar Studio operates as a vehicle for social change, providing more than just employment for Dalit artisans. The studio’s model includes fair wages, profit-sharing, and health insurance provided through the Chamar Foundation . This comprehensive approach recognizes that true empowerment extends beyond weekly paychecks to include dignity, visibility, and long-term community growth . 

The impact on individual artisans has been profound. Rohan Kumar, a cobbler who still maintains a modest spot at Mumbai’s Virar railway station, describes how joining Chamar Studio transformed his life: “I used to struggle with my daily earnings, working on the roadside. Now my work is valued – not just for money, but for the respect it brings” . Kumar’s craftsmanship now travels to international galleries, including PAD London and India Art Fair—a journey from roadside obscurity to global recognition . 

This model of “production and participation” has drawn attention from political figures like Rahul Gandhi, leader of India’s opposition Congress party, who visited the studio and praised its approach . 

Cultural Context: Caste Discrimination and Creative Response 

To fully appreciate Chamar Studio’s significance, one must understand the persistent reality of caste-based discrimination in India. Although the Indian constitution abolished such discrimination in 1950, prejudice continues to shape opportunities and social interactions . Between January and June 2025 alone, 113 caste-based attacks were reported nationwide, highlighting the ongoing challenges faced by Dalit communities . 

The studio’s deliberate reclamation of the term “Chamar” forms part of a broader strategy to challenge casteist attitudes. Rajbhar initially tested public reaction by creating a cotton bag with the word “Chamar” printed in different languages . This act of linguistic reappropriation mirrors similar movements worldwide where marginalized groups have transformed slurs into symbols of pride and resistance. 

Anubhav Nath, director of Delhi’s Ojas Art gallery, observes: “The beauty of art is that it can be a great social equaliser. When people value the design, it doesn’t matter where the artist comes from” . This statement captures the transformative potential of creative work to transcend social barriers and challenge hierarchies of value and talent. 

Global Recognition and Future Directions 

Rihanna’s viral moment at Design Miami propelled Chamar Studio onto the global stage, but this represented just one milestone in a longer journey of increasing recognition . The studio’s work has been exhibited at prestigious venues including PAD London, India Art Fair, and Design Democracy Hyderabad . 

Looking forward, Chamar Studio aims to increase the visibility of Dalit identity in galleries, museums, and the global imagination . As Rajbhar states: “We want Dalit identity to be visible in galleries, in museums, and in the global imagination. By transforming waste into art, and insult into pride, we are reshaping both our environment and our society” . 

Table: Chamar Studio’s Social Impact Model 

A Blueprint for Change: Lessons from Chamar Studio 

Chamar Studio’s model offers valuable insights for addressing interconnected social and environmental challenges: 

• Transformative Reclamation: The studio demonstrates how marginalized communities can reclaim degrading terms and stereotypes, transforming them into sources of pride and power. 

• Sustainable Innovation: By identifying value where others see waste, Chamar Studio creates environmental solutions that simultaneously address social inequities. 

• Holistic Empowerment: True social change requires more than employment—it necessitates dignity, recognition, and comprehensive support including fair compensation and benefits. 

• Cultural Bridge-Building: The studio’s work creates dialogues across social divides, bringing the craftsmanship of marginalized communities to international audiences. 

• Artistic Integrity: Despite its social mission, Chamar Studio maintains rigorous artistic standards, proving that work with a conscience need not compromise on quality or aesthetics. 

As we reflect on the journey of Chamar Studio, we find a powerful narrative about the potential of creativity to transform not just materials, but lives and societies. In a world grappling with environmental crisis and social division, this model of conscious creativity offers a template for how we might reimagine waste, worth, and the very meaning of value. 

The story of Chamar Studio reminds us that the most powerful designs aren’t just beautiful objects—they’re bridges between worlds, conversations across divides, and proof that from the most unlikely materials, we can craft a more inclusive and sustainable future.