Beyond the Curry House: A Culinary Tour of London’s True Indian Food, Guided by Asma Khan 

Driven by a longing for authentic flavours from home, Chef Asma Khan has become a pivotal voice in transforming London’s perception of Indian cuisine. She champions a move beyond generic curry house staples, guiding us toward a scene rich with regional diversity and profound culinary stories. Her curated list is a passport to this world, from the Michelin-starred artistry of Benares to the humble, perfect dosas in East Ham. It includes historic settings serving royal dishes, vibrant street food hubs, and hidden gems showcasing specific community traditions like Gujarati and Parsi cooking.

Ultimately, Khan’s guide is an invitation to genuinely connect with the culture—to explore, adventure, and embrace the true soul of Indian food through the hands that best know how to cook it.

Beyond the Curry House: A Culinary Tour of London’s True Indian Food, Guided by Asma Khan 

For decades, “Indian food” in London was a monolith. It was a familiar menu of creamy kormas, fiery vindaloos, and fluorescent shahi pulao, designed to suit a British palate but often a distant echo of the subcontinent’s vast culinary diversity. 

But a revolution has been simmering, and at its heart is Chef Asma Khan. When she moved from Kolkata to the UK in the 1990s, she was met with those familiar curry houses. A deep homesickness eventually led her to start a supper club from her home, which blossomed into Darjeeling Express—the world’s only all-female-run Indian restaurant—and a global platform. 

Khan’s mission is clear: “I am brown. My food is brown. I want you to embrace my culture.” She has been instrumental in educating Londoners on the incredible regional variations of Indian cuisine. Gone are the days of generic favourites; today’s diners are eager adventurers. 

We’ve distilled Khan’s expertise into a curated guide to London’s Indian food scene. This isn’t just a list of restaurants; it’s a map to understanding the soul, history, and breathtaking diversity of Indian cooking in the capital. 

1. For Culinary Artistry: Benares (Mayfair) 

Imagine the precision of French technique meeting the vibrant spice trails of India. At Michelin-starred Benares, chef Sameer Taneja does just that, using pristine British produce to reinterpret classics. 

Asma’s Insight: “You see his classical training in every dish, but the Indian soul is unmistakable.” She points to the hiran boti tikka (deer marinated with traditional moringa and Western crème fraiche) as a perfect example of this fusion. The result is dining that feels both innovative and deeply respectful of its origins. 

2. For a Taste of History: The Cinnamon Club (Westminster) 

Dining in a former Victorian library is an experience in itself. For over two decades, The Cinnamon Club has offered contemporary Indian cuisine within these opulent, book-lined walls. 

Asma’s Insight & Pro-Tip: Khan highlights the chicken rezala, a delicately spiced, saffron-infused dish from Bengal. “It proves that even in a fancy setting, you can find truly regional gems.” Her savvy advice? Book early between 5:30-6:00 PM, Monday to Saturday, for an accessible three-course set menu. 

3. For Street Food Thrills: Roti Chai (Marble Arch) 

This bi-level restaurant is your gateway to the bustling food markets of Mumbai and Delhi. The ground-floor “Street Kitchen” is perfect for a quick, flavour-packed stop. 

Asma’s Insight: “This is where you go when you want the energy of Indian street food without the commitment of a full meal.” She recommends the samosa chaat—a symphony of textures and flavours with its crisp pastry, smooth yoghurt, tangy tamarind chutney, and crunchy sev noodles. It’s ideal for a late, casual lunch. 

4. For the Perfect Dosa: Taste of India (East Ham) 

For Khan, some cravings are worth a journey. She makes the 40-minute trek to East Ham specifically for the dosas at Taste of India—thin, fermented rice-and-lentil crepes that are a South Indian breakfast staple. 

Asma’s Insight: “The fermentation of the batter is just right. It’s hot, fast, and absolutely authentic.” She suggests making a day of it, exploring the area’s Indian supermarkets for spices and sweets and visiting the local Hindu temple. 

5. For Coastal Flavours: Quilon (Westminster) 

Chef Sriram Aylur’s Michelin-starred Quilon showcases the often-overlooked cuisine of India’s southwestern coast. The focus is on fresh, local seafood and meticulously hand-ground spices. 

Asma’s Insight: “The food is nuanced and distinctive.” Her must-try is the unique Cochin lobster broth, a dish that captures the essence of the Kerala coast in a bowl. 

6. For a Time Capsule: Diwana Bhel Poori House (Euston) 

A true institution since 1971, Diwana is a no-frills, beloved canteen. With its long benches, old Hindi film songs, and incredibly affordable menu, it’s a portal to another time. 

Asma’s Insight: “They are absolutely no-filter. I’ve been a customer for nearly 30 years, and they’re still the same.” It’s heart-and-soul food, from the classic bhel puri to the sweet, rose-flavoured falooda. 

7. For a Hidden Gem: Asher’s Africana (Wembley) 

Tucked away in Wembley, this unassuming vegetarian restaurant tells a story of migration. It serves Gujarati cuisine, influenced by the community that fled from East Africa. 

Asma’s Insight: “The kitchen is run by older Gujarati women, and you can taste the love in the soft chapatis and perfectly balanced sabzis.” This is a place of community, cherished by locals rather than influencers, offering a genuine taste of home-cooking. 

8. For Culinary Adventure: Café Spice Namaste (Docklands) 

Venture to the Royal Albert Wharf for a unique culinary experience. The journey itself—which can involve a cable car ride—is part of the fun. 

Asma’s Insight: The reward is authentic Parsi cuisine, a distinct blend of Persian and Indian flavours courtesy of chefs Cyrus and Pervin Todiwalla. Skip the standard curry house fare and seek out the real dhansak (meat with lentils and spices) or the original vindaloo. “It’s a beautiful visual and culinary journey,” says Khan. 

The Real Takeaway from Asma Khan’s London 

This guide is more than a list; it’s a testament to a culinary landscape transformed. London’s Indian food scene is now a vibrant tapestry of regional specialties, personal stories, and authentic flavours. It invites you to move beyond the familiar, to eat with your hands, and to embrace the rich, diverse, and “brown” beauty of true Indian cuisine. So, be an adventurer. Your taste buds will thank you.